Use this page to submit a service request if you are experiencing a wildlife related issue. Appointment Request Form Please let us know a date and time that is most convenient for you, and we will do our best to accommodate your schedule. *Please understand, that during our "Busy Season", it may take up to a week to reply to your request. Inclement weather also plays a huge role in our ability to get on roofs or complete tasks due to safety concerns.*

Turcotte's Wildlife Removal and Remediation is a Licensed/Insured Animal Damage Control Company Servicing all of Maine. Wildlife Trapping and Removal Services. Remediation Services. Raccoon, Squirrel, Fox, Coyote, Skunk, Bat, etc. SERVICE AGREEMENT & LIABILITY RELEASE DEFINITIONS: For the purposes of this Agreement, Turcottes Wildlife Removal Services shall be referred to as the ''Company'' and the client, property owner, or authorized agent shall be referred to as the ''Owner.'' PARTIES: This Agreement is between Kaileb Turcotte d/b/a Turcottes Wildlife Removal Services (the ''Company'') and the Property Owner and/or Authorized Agent (the ''Owner''). 1. REPRESENTATIONS AND AUTHORITY ● Ownership: The Owner represents that they own or manage the premises and have full authority to contract for the services provided. ● Professional Status: The Company is a sole proprietorship, fully licensed and insured in the State of Maine, specializing in professional wildlife management and structural remediation. 2. SCOPE OF SERVICES & PERMISSIONS ● Access: The Owner grants the Company full permission to access the property, including roofs, attics, crawlspaces, and outbuildings. ● Methodology: Permission is granted to use exclusionary tools, trenching, burrow fumigation, and trapping equipment, including, but not limited to: Cage Traps, Body-Grip Traps, Leg-Hold Traps, Cable Restraints, Firearms, and Euthanasia Equipment. ● Heavy Equipment: Permission is granted for the use of extension ladders, power tools, and heavy machinery (manlifts/boom lifts) as required for remediation and access. ● Surveillance: The Owner authorizes the use of cellular, motion-activated game cameras; all footage is sent directly to Kaileb Turcotte and remains the private property of the Company. 3. THE CLEANLINESS PROMISE & ETHICS ● Home Care: The Company treats the Owner's home with respect, utilizing drop cloths and protective boot covers during interior work. ● Ethical Standards: All animals will be handled according to Maine State Law and the ethical standards of the NWCOA (National Wildlife Control Operators Association), prioritizing humane relocation where possible. 4. SPECIFIC SERVICE EXCLUSIONS ● Pests: The Company does not provide services for, or treat for, mice, bedbugs, or stinging/wood-destroying insects. ● Pesticides: The Company does not apply chemical pesticides. 5. COMPREHENSIVE LIABILITY LIMITATIONS ● Property Condition: The Company is not responsible for damage caused by wildlife prior to, during, or after service, including chewed wiring, soiled insulation, or structural rot. ● Incidental Damage: The Company is not liable for minor cosmetic wear, shingle damage, or lawn indentations resulting from the necessary use of ladders, lifts, or tools. ● Underground Utilities: The Owner must identify and mark all private underground lines; the Company is not liable for damage to unmarked private utilities. 6. TRAPPING & DISPOSITION ● Tampering: DO NOT TOUCH OR DISTURB TRAPS. Per Maine Law, tampering with traps is illegal and will be reported to the Warden Service. The Owner assumes all risk regarding interference with equipment. ● Equipment Security: The Owner is responsible for the security of all Company equipment on-site; damaged, stolen, or missing items will be billed to the Owner at replacement cost, up to $500.00, depending on the item. 7. THE TURCOTTE GUARANTEE (WARRANTY) The Company provides a 2-year Exclusion Warranty on full-structure exclusions, starting from the Final Invoice Date. ● Coverage: If the excluded species or adverse weather breaches professional repairs, the Company will re-trap and re-seal the area at no cost to the Owner. ● Renewability: The Owner may renew the warranty every 2 years for a $300.00 fee, which includes a thorough inspection and necessary touch-ups. Renewals must be purchased prior to the current warranty's expiration. ● Transferability: Active warranties may be transferred to a new homeowner. The new owner must purchase annual extensions to maintain coverage. ● Disqualifications: No warranty is offered for buildings in disrepair, including rotted wood, rock foundations, traditional log homes with chinking, or buildings with confirmed rat infestations. Gray squirrel colony trapping does not carry a warranty. ● Modifications: Roofing, siding, or structural additions by third parties may void this warranty. The Company offers Contractor Consultations to provide advice and ensure continued structural integrity. 8. FINANCIAL TERMS & PAYMENT POLICY ● Mandatory Deposit: A 50% deposit is required for all services and must be paid prior to the commencement of work. ● Accepted Payment Methods: The Company accepts Cash or Credit/Debit Card only. ● Checks: No personal checks will be accepted. The Company will only accept certified or guaranteed checks, such as Business Checks, Banker's Checks, or Money Orders. ● Final Payment: The remaining balance is due upon receipt of the Final Invoice. ● Late Fees: Unpaid balances accrue interest at 1.5% per month. ● Collections: The Owner is responsible for all reasonable attorney’s fees and costs incurred for collection. BINDING ACCEPTANCE By signing below or electronically approving the provided quote, the Owner acknowledges they have read, understood, and agreed to be bound by the terms and conditions stated above, and that such approval constitutes a binding contract for services with the Company. Owner Signature: ___________________________ Date: __________ Print Name: ___________________________ Kaileb Turcotte (Company): Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services

Turcotte's Wildlife Removal and Remediation is a Licensed/Insured Animal Damage Control Company Servicing all of Maine. Wildlife Trapping and Removal Services. Remediation Services. Raccoon, Squirrel, Fox, Coyote, Skunk, Bat, etc. Our Mission... At Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services, our mission is to provide the most humane methods for Wildlife Trapping and Removal, repairing damage, and preventing future wildlife issues for homes and businesses across Maine. We prioritize the ethical treatment of animals and take pride in restoring comfort for our customers in their living and working spaces. Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services coordinates with homeowners and businessowners to effectively eliminate any nuisance animals causing harm or damage. Why do I have wildlife issues? As a resident of Maine, it's crucial to tackle pest problems, remove unwanted animals, and fix any damage they may cause. With the increasing human population, we're moving further into wildlife territory, making it essential to stay alert. Hiring Animal Damage Control experts has become vital in managing infestations. For your family's safety and your home's protection, consider scheduling an inspection today! Why us over your typical pest control company? When nuisance wildlife invades your home, you need more than just a quick fix. You need a professional partner who understands Maine’s unique wildlife challenges. At Turcotte’s Wildlife Removal Services, we specialize in the humane removal of bats, raccoons, squirrels, and many more of Maine's wildlife, but we don't stop at the catch. Our "Full-Circle" approach ensures your home is not only clear of intruders but also fully restored. From professional exclusion that keeps animals out for good, to complete attic remediation and insulation replacement, we handle the dirty work so you don’t have to. Why Choose Turcotte’s Wildlife Removal Services? • Humane & Ethical: We prioritize the safe, legal handling of all local wildlife. • Full Remediation: We clean the mess and repair the damage to restore your home’s value. • Locally Owned: Proudly serving Maine with reliability, honesty, integrity and a keen eye for detail. Don’t wait for the damage to get worse. REQUEST AN APPOINTMENT TODAY! Wildlife Trapping and Removal Services ONLY We would like to inform you that the specialists at Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services are uniquely qualified and certified to manage situations involving wild nuisance animals that may be causing damage to properties, whether residential or commercial. Please keep in mind that we do not deal with issues related to domestic animals, including cats, dogs, or any caged pets. For any questions concerning domestic animals, we suggest contacting your local police department or checking the link below for a list of Licensed Animal Control Agents. CLICK HERE

Learn about all the owner of Turcotte's Wildlife Removal and Remediation About Me Based in the picturesque state of Maine, Kaileb has always been surrounded by the beauty and unpredictability of wildlife. His journey into wildlife removal began in 2020 when he and his business partner Matt opened Ethical Wildlife Solutions of Maine, LLC. Together, for 6 years, they built a highly rated business with a strong customer base. Collectively, Kaileb and Matt decided to pursue their own independent businesses aside from Ethical Wildlife Solutions. Since then, Kaileb has ventured out 'into the wild' on his own, starting Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services. Kaileb has cultivated a reputation over the years for excellence in the industry. Each wildlife call he receives is met with an unwavering commitment to address the situation with both urgency and precision. When you engage our services, you can expect a prompt and thorough response to your wildlife-related concerns, ensuring both safety and peace of mind. Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services is widely recognized not only for our technical expertise but also for our steadfast dedication to customer satisfaction and the ethical treatment of animals. These principles form the bedrock of our operations, guiding every decision that we make and every service we provide. Our team is well-trained and equipped to handle a wide range of wildlife issues, from assessing damage to animal removal to remediation, all while adhering to best practices and state and federal laws in animal welfare. To learn more about our comprehensive range of services and how we can assist you with your specific needs, please do not hesitate to reach out to us at your earliest convenience. We are here to provide support and guidance in navigating any wildlife challenges you may encounter. Thank you for considering Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services. Your satisfaction and safety are our top priorities. To Request an appointment, CLICK HERE .

View our website to learn more about our Consultation Services! On-Site Contractor Consultations Inspections Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info • The Problem: Many builders focus on aesthetics rather than "pest-proofing," leaving gaps in new construction. • Our Service: We work directly with homeowners and contractors during the building or renovation phase to identify design flaws that wildlife will exploit. • The Result: Your new investment is protected from day one, saving you thousands in future removal costs. If you're a skilled contractor or handyman who is having trouble identifying the points of entry for animals in the home or business you are working on, our professional service is just what you need. For a fee, Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services offers a comprehensive inspection of the home or business in question. Following the inspection, we will collaborate and discuss the necessary actions and materials needed to prevent animals from entering. We will organize the duties of each contractor and the timelines needed to complete the job effectively and efficiently. We will educate the contractors and homeowners when certain training, licensing, and/or certifications are needed to do the job legally and correctly. Every entry point will be carefully assessed and documented, providing the contractors and homeowners with a clear focus for their efforts. A comprehensive quote from Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services will be created and sent to the contractors, in case they decide to utilize our professional services. To request your appointment today, CLICK HERE !

View our website to learn more Wildlife Rehabilitation! Wild Animal Rehabilitation Services Inspections Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info $50.00 Donation To The Rehab Center Is Required When We Transport Wildlife. Please have cash ready when the technician arrives. Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services takes pride in employing a humane approach to capture and relocate nuisance animals. Regrettably, some captured animals may have pre-existing injuries or illnesses, making it unfeasible to release them back into the wild. At present, we do not possess the necessary resources to provide round-the-clock care required by the remarkable creatures we aim to assist. To address this concern, we have established partnerships with local rehabilitation experts who undertake the responsibility of tending to these animals. Once rehabilitated, the animals are reintroduced into their natural habitat. This additional service offered by our company underscores our commitment to the welfare of these magnificent creatures within our state. Additionally, we offer the option to promptly retrieve any wildlife animals in need of urgent professional care for a nominal fee . If you happen to find an animal that is sick or injured and won't leave your home or business, call to book an appointment, and we will come assist! CLICK HERE to request your Appointment Today! Click on the PDF link below to view a list of all the Local Maine Wildlife Rehabilitation Centers:

Learn more about the Coyotes that we work with here! Coyotes Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Coyotes The coyote (Canis latrans) expanded its range north and east into Maine in the 1930s, slipping into the niche that wolves once occupied as largest canine predator. These intelligent and adaptable animals now occupy almost every conceivable habitat type, from open agricultural country to dense forest to downtown urban areas. Despite ever continued human encroachment and efforts to eliminate coyotes, the species has maintained its numbers. The coyote's tenacity tries the patience of some and the admiration of others. Coyotes are medium in size. They have pointed muzzles and long, brushy tails. Their coats are usually a mixture of tan, black and gray, but can range from black to strawberry blond. The average adult coyote weighs 30 to 35 pounds, with males being heavier than females. Large males only rarely will exceed 45 pounds. Biologists estimate that at least 12,000 coyotes are living in Maine. Food and Feeding Behavior Coyotes are opportunists, both as hunters and as scavengers. They eat small animals, including snowshoe hare, mice, rats, woodchucks, beavers, squirrels, snakes, frogs, fish, birds and carrion (animal carcasses). During summer and fall, they also eat grass, fruits and berries. They may also eat pet food, garbage, garden crops, livestock and poultry. Most hunting activity takes place at night. Undisturbed, hungry coyotes may hunt during daylight hours, and sometimes follow farm machinery, catching voles and other small prey. In winter, when snow depth restricts the movements of deer, these animals may become a larger part of a coyote's diet. Pairs of coyotes or family groups, using the relay method, pursue small deer. In the spring and summer coyotes may target deer, fawns and small mammals. Den Sites The female coyote digs her own den under an uprooted tree, log or thicket. Or, she may use a cave, hollow log, or storm drain, or take over and enlarge another mammal's burrow. The den typically has an entrance one to two feet across, a main chamber five to 15 feet long, and a terminal chamber. Coyotes usually have several dens and move from one to the other, minimizing the risk that a den containing young will be detected. These moves also help to prevent an accumulation of fleas and other parasites, urine, droppings and food refuse. Coyotes may use the same dens year after year or make new dens in the same area. Reproduction and Family Structure A mated pair of coyotes will live, hunt and raise pups together for many years, sometimes for life. Breeding occurs in late January and February. After a gestation (pregnancy) of 63 days, the female gives birth to an average of four pups from late March through May. Population density and the availability of food can affect the litter size. Both parents care for the young. Occasionally, non-breeding siblings will assist. Pups emerge from the den in two to three weeks and begin to eat regurgitated food. Conflicts between humans and coyotes may occur at this time because the need for food increases dramatically. By six months of age, pups have permanent teeth and are nearly fully grown. At this time, female coyotes train their offspring to search for food, so it is not unusual to observe a family group. Juvenile coyotes usually disperse alone or sometimes in groups at six to eight months of age. A few may stay nearby, while others seek new territory up to fifty miles away. The more food available in a given area, the closer the juveniles will stay to their den. Although such crosses are rare, it is possible for coyotes to breed with domestic dogs. Mortality and Longevity Coyote numbers are controlled by social interactions and competition for food. They are territorial and aggressively defend their territories against other coyotes. Therefore, only a limited number of coyotes can live in a given area. The main predators of coyotes are humans. Coyotes may occasionally kill another coyote or its pups. Hunting and trapping reduce the overall population and thus competition among the animals. Because pup survival increases as competition decreases, hunting and trapping can enhance pup survival. Coyotes in captivity may live as long as 18 years. In the wild, few coyotes live more than four years; the majority of pups die during their first year. Aggression Coyotes occasionally kill domestic cats, dogs and other wild predators that might compete with them for food. Coyotes are protective of their young and will attack dogs that get too close to their den and pups. Note : Although people often blame coyotes when a pet goes missing or is found dead, many other animals – including dogs cats, bears, fishers, bobcats and foxes – could be responsible, as well as vehicles, disease, weather or even furious neighbors. To date, there have been no documented coyote attacks on humans in Maine. There are documented cases in other states. Often the animals responsible had become accustomed to the presence of people, were fed, and/or were targeting dogs that accompanied people. A Wildlife Extension Specialist at the University of California studied southern California – the West's most densely populated area – and found that from 1988 to 1997 there were 53 coyote attacks on humans resulting in 21 injuries. Viewing Coyotes Coyotes are extremely wary. Their sense of smell is remarkable, and their senses of sight and hearing are exceptionally well developed. You are most likely to see coyotes during the hours just after sunset and before sunrise. Go to a well-used game trail and wait patiently from an overlook. A coyote will often come down the trail the same time every morning or evening. Or, you can watch where a coyote is likely to feed, such as the area around livestock or a big game carcass. Never approach an occupied coyote den. A mother's protective instincts can make her dangerous if she has young in or nearby the den. Observe den sites and coyotes with binoculars or a spotting scope; you should be far enough away that you do not visibly disturb the animals. Unfamiliar or new human activity close to the den, especially within a quarter of a mile, will often cause coyotes to move, particularly if the pups are older, if the adults see you, or if the den is in an open area with little protective cover. Tracks and Trails Look for coyote tracks in mud, sand, dust or snow. Their trails are often found along shallow gullies, fence lines, waterways, game and livestock trails, on or near roads and on ridge tops. Coyote prints are more oblong-shaped than dog prints. The normal print is about two inches wide and two and a half inches long, with the hind print slightly smaller than the front. The two front toenails nearly always leave imprints. Droppings Coyote droppings are found in conspicuous places and on or near their trails. The droppings are extremely variable in size, shape and composition, depending on the animal's diet at the time. Individual droppings average three to four inches long with a diameter of one inch. Droppings consisting of a lot of hair may be larger. The residue from pure meat and entrails is likely to be black and semi-liquid. When the animal has been eating chokecherries, apples, blackberries, huckleberries, elderberries, or other fruit, the droppings tend to crumble and contain a significant amount of seeds. Coyote droppings are extremely variable in size, shape and composition. Other Signs When a coyote feeds on small mammals such as a rabbit, it eats the head, feet, and hide along with the legs and body, leaving a scattering of fur at the site. You may find bones, feathers and fur immediately outside the entrance to a den. Signs of digging occur where coyotes follow promising scents and excavate prey, including moles, voles, and woodchucks, or where they make failed attempts at excavating a den. When a tree falls across a trail, coyotes have to either go over or under it, depending on their size and the height of the fallen tree. Those that go over tend to rub the bark off the top of the log; those that go under sometimes leave hair on the underside. Also look for coyote hairs on a wire fence where a trail runs next to or under the fence. Calls Coyotes have a variety of vocalizations to communicate with each other. To signal threat and alarm, they use woofs and growls for short distances and barks and bark-howls for long distances. They use whines in greetings. They howl individually and in a group to tell separated group members that they have found food. They often utter a yip-howl when a group reunites. During the summer, juvenile coyotes learn these calls and can be heard trying out their voices. Juvenile coyotes are often heard in summer, trying out their voices. Preventing Conflicts Research suggests that humans create the conditions for conflict by deliberately or inadvertently providing the animals with food (such as carcasses of farm animals) or handouts, prompting young coyotes to quickly lose their fear of people. Coyotes will also become dependent on the easy food source humans have come to represent. Once a coyote loses its fear and stops hunting, it may become dangerous and attack without warning. Dealing with coyotes begins with prevention. Once an animal causes damage, it may become easier to do it again. Use the following management strategies around your property and, if possible, encourage your neighbors to do the same. Don't leave small children unattended in areas where you or others have frequently seen or heard coyotes. If there are coyote sightings, prepare your children for a possible encounter. Explain that coyotes live in the area because it is their natural habitat, there is food available, and they are adaptable animals. Say that if a coyote should approach, they should not run but be as big, mean, and loud as possible. Tell them to shout, "Go away coyote!" (or some similar phrase) rather than merely scream, which conveys no information to a nearby adult. Demonstrate and have the children rehearse this behavior. Modify the landscape around children's play areas. Prune shrubs and trees several feet above ground level so coyotes cannot hide in them. Keep deterrents nearby in times of increased sightings. Keep an old hockey stick, a broom, or a pile of stones near the play area to help prepare children for an encounter and to remind them of effective encounter behavior. Never feed coyotes. If fed, coyotes can lose their fear of humans and develop a territorial attitude that may lead to aggressive behavior. Try to educate your friends and neighbors about the problems associated with feeding wild animals. If you belong to a homeowner's association or neighborhood watch, bring up the subject during one of the meetings. Don't give coyotes access to garbage. Keep garbage can lids on tight by securing them with rope, chain, bungee cords or weights, or purchase quality garbage cans with clamps or other mechanisms that hold lids on. To prevent tipping, secure the side handles to metal or wooden stakes driven into the ground. Keep your cans in tight-fitting bins, a shed or a garage. Prevent access to fruit and compost. Keep fruit trees fenced and pick up fruit that falls to the ground. Securely cover compost piles and maintain them within a fenced area. Cover new compost material with soil or lime to prevent it from smelling. Never include animal matter in your compost, as it attracts wild animals. Feed dogs and cats indoors. If you must feed your pets outside, do so in the morning or at midday, and pick up food, water bowls, leftovers and spilled food well before dark. Do not feed feral cats (domestic cats gone wild). Coyotes prey on these cats as well as any food you leave for them. Keep dogs and cats indoors, especially from dusk to dawn. Because they have been raised by humans, pets are not prepared to fend for themselves against predators. If you leave cats and small to mid-size dogs outside at night in an unprotected area, they can easily become prey. If you do lose a dog or cat to a coyote, notify your neighbors, because once a coyote finds easy prey it may continue to hunt in the area. Prevent the buildup of food under bird feeders. Coyotes will eat bird food and are attracted to the many birds and rodents that come to feeders. Build a coyote-proof fence. Coyotes don't leap fences in a single bound but, like domestic dogs, grip the top with their front paws and kick themselves upward and over with their back legs. The tendency to climb will depend on the individual animal and its motivation. A five-foot woven-wire fence with extenders facing outward at the top of each post should prevent coyotes from climbing into the area to be protected. Coyotes are excellent diggers, however, and an effective fence needs to extend at least eight inches below the surface or have a galvanized-wire apron that extends out from the fence at least 15 inches. Fence extensions are required to keep coyotes from jumping over a five-foot fence. Angle the top of a woven-wire fence out about 15 inches and completely around the fence. An effective fence extends below the surface or has a wire apron in front of it to prevent digging. Electric fences can also keep coyotes out of an enclosed area. This type of fence doesn't need to be as high as a woven-wire fence because a coyote's first instinct will be to pass through the wires instead of jumping over them. If the bottom wire is electrified, coyotes don't usually dig under it. A six-wire electric fence can keep coyotes out of an enclosed area.Two electrified wires, eight and 15 inches above ground, respectively, and offset from an existing wood fence by 12 inches will prevent coyotes from accessing the fence. A single strand may be sufficient, but two electrified wires will provide added insurance. Alternatively, install a commercial device, such as the Coyote Roller™ , to prevent coyotes from being able to get the foothold necessary to hoist themselves over a fence. Enclose poultry (chickens, ducks and turkeys) in a secure outdoor pen and house. If poultry and eggs are available, coyotes may eat them. (Note: Foxes, skunks, raccoons, feral cats, dogs, bobcats, opossums, weasels, hawks and owls also kill poultry) You can: Equip poultry houses with well-fitted doors and secure locking mechanisms. Stake the bottom of the fence flush to the ground, or line the bottom of the fence with bricks, fence posts, or similar items. For ways to prevent coyotes from digging under a fence or structure. Completely enclose outdoor pens with one-inch chicken wire placed over a sturdy wooden framework. Various ways to install a barrier to prevent coyotes from digging under chicken coops and similar places. To add to the life of the barrier, spray on two coats of rustproof paint before installation. Always check for utility lines before digging in an area. Lay large flat stones, concrete patio pavers, or quarter-inch hardware cloth (held in place with stakes) on the surface of the soil next to a wall. The barrier forces coyotes to begin digging farther out and they will most likely give up in the process. Bend hardware cloth into an "L" shape and lay it in a trench so that the wire goes at least one foot below ground and one foot out from the wall. Excavate a three-inch by three-inch trench along the side of a wall and hammer two-foot lengths of half-inch rebar, spaced a few inches apart, into the ground. Cover the tops with concrete or dirt. Keep livestock and small animals that live outdoors confined in secure pens during periods of vulnerability. All animals should be confined from dusk to dawn. Temporary or portable fencing keeps livestock together so that they can be guarded more effectively. During birthing season, keep young and vulnerable animals confined at all times. Do not use remote pastures or holding areas, especially if there has been a recent coyote attack. Remove any sick and injured animals immediately. Ensure that young animals have a healthy diet so that they are strong and less vulnerable to predators. Livestock producers have discovered that scare devices, such as motion detectors, radios, and other noise makers, will deter coyotes – until the animals realize that they are not dangerous. Note : Educated farmers attempt to kill coyotes only when damage has occurred. If your property is home to coyotes that have not harmed livestock or pets, it is wise to keep them alive as they will keep away other coyotes that are potential livestock killers. Coyotes also benefit farmers and other property owners by helping control populations of mice, rats, voles, moles, and woodchucks. Remove or bury dead livestock. Coyotes, with their keen sense of smell, quickly find dead animals. Cover the carcass with a minimum of two feet of soil or place it in an incinerator. If you have a lot of property with livestock, consider using a guard animal. There are specialty breeds of dogs that can defend livestock. Donkeys and llamas have also successfully been used as guard animals. As with any guard animal, pros and cons exist. Purchase a guard animal from a reputable breeder. Some breeders offer various guarantees on their guard animals, including a replacement if an animal fails to perform as expected. Lethal Control If all efforts to discourage a problem coyote fail and it continues to be a threat to humans or animals in their care, the animal may have to be killed. In suburban areas of southern California, trapping and euthanizing coyotes has been shown not only to remove the individual problem animal, but also to modify the behavior of the local coyote population. When humans remove a few coyotes, the local population may regain its fear of humans in densely populated areas. It is neither necessary nor possible to eliminate the entire population of coyotes in a given area. Contact your local wildlife office for additional information.

Need to know more information on your warranty? Visit our Warranty Information page. The Turcotte Guarantee Protection Long After the Job is Done At Turcotte’s Wildlife Removal Services , we take pride in our craftsmanship. We don't believe in "temporary fixes." That is why we back our work with the strongest guarantee in the Maine wildlife industry. The Exclusion Warranty When we perform a full-structure exclusion (sealing your entire home), we provide a 2-year, Renewable Warranty. • What’s Covered: If a species we excluded or adverse weather breaches our professional repairs, we will return to re-trap and re-seal the area at zero cost to you. • Lifetime Renewability: We offer the option to renew your warranty annually for a nominal fee of $300, providing you with a lifetime of protection for your home. • Lifetime Transferability: If your warranty is active at the time of the sale of your home, you may contact us to transfer the warranty to the new owner. (The original expiration date is still valid even with transfer. To avoid expiration of the warranty currently in place, the new owner may purchase a warranty extension every year for the life of the home.) - Warranty Renewals: Must be purchased prior to the expiration of the warranty that is currently in place. - Expiration Date: Always 2 years after the service was completed. [For example: Service ended and final invoice was received on 01/01/2026, Warranty Starts on: 01/01/2026. The expiration date of this warranty would be: 01/01/2028.] - Disclaimer: Not all building structures that we work on qualify for a warranty. [Example: Old farm house with severely rotted wood and rock foundation. Traditional log homes with chinking. Dilapidated building structure. A building with a confirmed rat infestation.] The Ethical Guarantee We guarantee that all animals will be handled according to Maine State Law and the highest ethical standards of the NWCOA (National Wildlife Control Operators Association). We prioritize non-lethal methods and humane relocation whenever possible. The Cleanliness Promise We treat your home like our own. Our technicians use drop cloths, wear protective boot covers, and ensure that when we leave, the only sign we were there is the lack of noise in your attic. Our warranty provides reassurance that our work is guaranteed and will cover any issues that may arise. Furthermore, it is transferable to a new owner in the event that you sell your home, thus adding a significant selling point. Additionally, it can be renewed through inspections at the end of the term, providing ongoing protection and demonstrating the value of your property to prospective buyers. Preventative measures against wildlife such as bats and flying squirrels are essential for maintaining the integrity of your property, especially in New England where such wildlife can cause significant damage that may not be covered by standard homeowners insurance policies. Our initial Building/Property Inspections are to ensure that any wildlife issues are identified and addressed prior to a Building Inspector Inspection, thereby preventing potential delays in the buildings sale process. It is important to recognize that New England's extreme weather conditions and natural ground settling can affect the integrity of our preventative work over time. Renewing your current warranty is a prudent decision and can potentially save you substantial costs in the future. Our experienced technicians will conduct a thorough inspection of your property, make any necessary touch-ups, and ensure that your building remains secure from wildlife for another 2 years. The total cost for this service is $300.00. To maintain continuous coverage, it is essential to adhere to our warranty guidelines and seek our guidance in the event of any exterior modifications to your home. For instance, roofing, siding, windows, foundation work, or any additions may impact the validity of the warranty. Our wildlife control technicians are available to provide a Contractor Consultation and provide advice and suggestions to prevent any disruptions and mitigate the risk of wildlife re-entry or re-infestation. If the contractor would like to use our company for the professional services we offer, they may do that! Your appointment can be scheduled by clicking the link below. Should you have any questions or require further information, please do not hesitate to contact us. We are here to provide the support and guidance you need. Request your Appointment Today!

View our website to learn more about Bird Exclusions and Prevention! Bird Exclusions/Preventative Inspections Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info • The Problem: Birds nesting in vents or on ledges cause corrosive droppings, fire hazards, and noise. • Our Service: We install specialized bird spikes, netting, or custom vent covers that allow airflow but prevent entry. • The Result: A clean exterior and protected ventilation systems. Birds tend to roost in unwanted areas, which can pose various challenges for homeowners. Fortunately, Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services is certified with multiple bird-excluding and prevention companies, offering special products to deter birds from roosting on or around your property. These companies provide a variety of equipment designed to address this issue effectively. In addition to roosting, birds may also nest inside areas of the home, such as the dryer vent and soffit boxes. Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services has the expertise and equipment to safely extract them from the building and install the appropriate Exclusion materials to prevent further nesting. Furthermore, it's important to note that bird droppings can contain respiratory diseases, making the cleanup of the affected areas hazardous. Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services is committed to providing thorough cleaning and sanitization quotes for any areas that require attention after our service. It's important to remember that typical animals requiring exclusion services include, but are not limited to, raccoons, bats, flying squirrels, weasels, snakes, mice, rats, etc. If you require professional wildlife exclusion services, we encourage you to CLICK HERE to request your appointment today.

View our website to learn more about Humane Animal Trapping! Wildlife Trapping and Relocation Inspections Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info Important Notice: Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services places significant emphasis on the ethical treatment of animals. However, WE DO NOT engage in any trapping of mice or rats . Rats and mice, unlike raccoons, are challenging to capture due to their exceptional cleverness. While it is theoretically possible, it necessitates a considerable investment of time, patience, and optimism. Instead, we provide an Exclusion service , this service involves sealing and preventing the re-entry of any wild animals. • The Problem: An animal is currently inside your living space or established on your property, posing a risk to your family or pets. • Our Service: We utilize industry-leading, humane trapping techniques and emergency live-capture methods. Whether it’s a raccoon in the kitchen or a skunk under the porch, we prioritize the safe and ethical handling of the animal. • The Result: Immediate removal of the threat with zero unnecessary harm to the animal. Our trapping service complies with all Maine State guidelines and laws for the humane trapping and relocation of wild nuisance animals. We conduct five consecutive days of trapping, utilizing a variety of traps to ensure the safety and welfare of the animals. We use special baits and lures to target specific species. Upon capture, each animal is immediately assessed for health. Healthy animals are transported to safe locations in accordance with Maine State Animal Damage Control laws, while sick animals are taken to our partnered Wildlife Rehabilitation Experts. At the conclusion of the trapping period, all traps will be removed from the property. At this time, any requested animal deterrents will be applied or installed. **Please note that trapping is not guaranteed to be successful.** Typical animals that may require trapping include groundhogs, skunks, foxes, red and gray squirrels, raccoons, opossums, and many more. CLICK HERE to request an appointment today!

Learn more about the Animals that we work with here! Common animals that we deal with... Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Maine is home to a diverse range of wildlife species that have the potential to cause damage to your residential or commercial property. We are proud to offer our services for the humane removal of any wildlife that may be causing a nuisance in your environment. We invite you to view our slideshow showcasing some of the animals we have experience in working with.

View our website to learn more about Wildlife Exlusions! Wildlife Building Exclusions Inspections Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info * Please be advised that our exclusions MAY NOT extend to cases involving severely rotted wood or traditional style log homes (not including kit style log homes). * • The Problem: Trapping an animal is only a temporary fix if the "door" is left open for the next one. • Our Service: This is our specialty. We "critter-proof" your home using heavy-duty galvanized steel screening, custom flashing, and professional-grade sealants that animals cannot chew through. • The Result: A permanent solution backed by our quality guarantee. If they can't get in, they can't cause damage. We offer a comprehensive approach to removing nuisance animals from any structure, using ethical and effective methods. Our process includes a thorough inspection of the exterior of the house to identify and address any potential animal entry. Wildlife Exclusion Process: 1. After we identify the entry points, we will install 'one-way doors' or 'colony traps'. These devices offer a unique and effective ability to evict/trap and relocate nuisance wildlife that has made entry into your attic, crawl space, or living space. 2. Once the traps or doors are installed, we will immediately install preventive materials in areas that have not yet been affected, but are still subject to wildlife entry. 3. After the animals have been evicted or relocated, we will permanently exclude the entry points from re-entry. This entails installing a vinyl-coated, steel mesh screen in ventilated areas and color-matched steel flashing in areas that do not require ventilation. (Please be advised, we DO NOT utilize any soft materials including, but not limited to, foam, cloth, copper stuffit, backing rod, plastic materials, etc.) 4. Our finished products are designed to be virtually invisible to maintain aesthetics and the value of the home. Our service typically includes a one-year warranty , with an option for an additional one-year warranty renewal at a nominal cost. Typical animals that require exclusion include, but are not limited to: bats, flying squirrels, raccoons, weasels, snakes, etc. CLICK HERE to request an appointment today!

Learn more about the Groundhogs that we work with here! Groundhogs Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Groundhogs Woodchucks, also called groundhogs, are closely related to the marmots that are common in the west. These grayish brown creatures are typically 16 to 20 inches long including a six-inch tail, and weigh between six and 12 pounds. Basking in the mid-day sun, families of woodchucks may evoke thoughts of a harmonious existence between humans and nature in suburbia. But many Maine gardeners soon learn that unless they take precautionary measures, most of their precious plantings may be sacrificed to the woodchuck's voracious appetite. Habitat In New England, woodchucks inhabit both urban and suburban yards, fields, meadows, woodland clearings, and are frequently seen in grassy areas along highways. Woodchucks live in extensive burrows two to six feet deep and up to 40 feet long that contain numerous chambers with specific functions such as nesting waste disposal. You can identify the main entrance by an adjacent large mound of dirt that the animal uses for observation and sitting in the sun; in addition, there may be as many as five other openings to the den. Behavior Woodchucks are active during the day. In summer they commonly feed in the early morning and the late afternoon, spending the rest of the day sleeping or basking in the sun. Woodchucks are among the few true hibernators found in Maine. In late summer they begin to put on weight in preparation for the move to their winter dens, often located in wooded areas. Woodchucks begin their hibernation in October and emerge in February or March. The average life span for a woodchuck in the wild is five to six years. Food Mainly vegetarians, woodchucks feed on a variety of grasses and chickweeds, clover, plantains and many varieties of wild flowers. They eat blackberries, raspberries, cherries, and other fruits and along with the bark of hickory and maple trees. To the dismay of gardeners, woodchucks love fresh vegetables, especially broccoli, peas, beans, carrot tops, lettuce and squash. They also commonly target asters, daisies, lilies, marigolds, pansies, phlox, snapdragons and sunflowers. Woodchucks will also eat grasshoppers, June bugs and other large insects. Breeding Woodchucks do not mate until their second year. Males and females breed in March or April, after which there is no further contact; the female raises the young alone. Woodchucks give birth from early April to mid-May following a 32-day gestation period. One litter contains four to six kits. The young open their eyes at four weeks and are weaned at six weeks when they are ready to leave the burrow with their mother. In the fall the young woodchucks venture off to seek their own territories.

Learn how being a responsible homeowner can help you avoid or resolve a wildlife confilct! Responsible Homeowner Tips/Tricks Source: https://www.maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife/wildlife/living-with-wildlife/index.html Why Are There Wild Animals Taking Over My Property And Causing Damage? Some wildlife species are drawn to residential areas because they offer food, shelter and safety from natural predators. But in exchange, they risk running into trouble with their human neighbors. MDIFW receives over 10,000 calls from the public each year related to wildlife conflicts, but we’d rather help you avoid those conflicts in the first place! As a Maine resident, you can control the way you experience the wildlife around you – enjoying the wonder of watching animals move through their habitats, not yours. To do so, you just need to understand why animals might be attracted to your property, and then take some preventative steps. How Being a Responsible Homeowner Can Avoid or Resolve a Wildlife Conflict... Many conflicts can be prevented by keeping your distance and removing common attractants. Here are some specific ways you can do that: KEEP WILDLIFE WILD Watch wildlife from a distance Never approach, handle, feed, or attempt to move a wild animal ELIMINATE ACCESS TO SHELTER Seal potential entry points in attics or chimneys and under buildings, decks, and crawl spaces with 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth, boards, or metal flashing. Trim tree limbs near rooftops and attach sheets of metal flashing around building corners BE SMART ABOUT THE GARBAGE Store garbage in a building Use garbage cans with latching lids that do not open if pushed over If you have curbside pickup, wait until that morning to take out the trash Keep dumpster lids closed and latched COMPOST RESPONSIBLY Secure your compost to keep wildlife out Never compost animal matter, which can become smelly and attract wildlife FEED BIRDS THE NATURAL WAY Plant native plants in your yard that provide food and shelter for birds and other species, without attracting rodents and other animals PROTECT POULTRY AND LIVESTOCK Secure your poultry and livestock in a predator-proof pen, protected by electric fencing or guard animals Store food indoors or in an animal-proof container BE A RESPONSIBLE PET OWNER Keep your pet’s vaccinations up to date Keep your pet on a leash and under control at all times Don’t feed pets outside unless you must; and if that’s the case, clean up after. Don’t feed feral cats At night (dusk until dawn), brings your pets inside and lock pet doors to keep other animals out

For a detailed quote, we will complete a thorough building and/or property inspection. Rooftop to Foundation. Home / Business Inspections Inspections Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info "Please be advised of the following details: Our inspection fee amounts to $125.00 for locations within 50 miles of the Lewiston/Auburn area. Inspections outside these parameters may be subject to additional fees." • The Problem: Most homeowners hear a noise but don't know where the animal is getting in or how much damage has been done. • Our Service: We perform a comprehensive, top-to-bottom "interior to exterior" evaluation of your structure. We identify active entry points, potential weak spots, and hidden damage in attics or crawlspaces. • The Result: You receive a full report and a strategic plan to clear the animals and secure your home permanently. Thank you for considering Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services for your service needs. We are pleased to inform you that our services always begin with a comprehensive inspection of your property. This detailed evaluation examines all aspects of your home or business, from rooftop to foundation, ensuring a thorough assessment of any animal occupation or property damage. Kaileb and his dedicated team will carefully inspect every area of your property. After this thorough inspection, we will send you a detailed email/quote summarizing our findings and recommended services. To accurately detect critters within your walls or ceilings, we may use advanced equipment such as thermal imaging, motion detecting cameras, etc. CLICK HERE to request an appointment today!

View our website to learn more about our Trenching Service! Trenching (External Dig Prevention) Inspections Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info • The Problem: Skunks, groundhogs, and foxes love to dig under sheds, decks, and concrete pads. • Our Service: We install a "curtain wall" or underground barrier. We dig a trench around the perimeter and install heavy-gauge hardware cloth that extends deep into the ground. • The Result: Animals are physically blocked from burrowing under your structures, protecting your foundation and preventing nesting. It's important to understand that some animals have a natural tendency to burrow. Unfortunately, this can lead to them choosing undesirable locations such as around your deck, foundation, driveway, or walkway. Trenching is a humane and effective method to prevent animals from burrowing around your property. Vinyl-coated mesh can be buried deep into the ground around the problematic area to deter animals from further burrowing. This method can also be employed to protect outdoor gardens from unwanted pests. Some typical animals that may require trenching include, but are not limited to, chipmunks, moles, groundhogs, rats, etc. If you're looking for expert assistance with trenching to prevent animal burrowing, request an appointment today, CLICK HERE !

Learn about all the owner of Turcotte's Wildlife Removal and Remediation A Permanent Solution to Nuisance Wildlife Most companies just set a trap and leave. At Turcotte’s, we follow a proven 4-step system to ensure your wildlife problem is solved for good. Step 1 : The Multi-Point Inspection We don’t guess; we investigate. Our technicians perform a grueling inspection of your property, from the ridge vent on your roof to the footings of your foundation. We identify: • Active entry points and "heavy-traffic" runways. • Pheromone trails that attract future animals. • Hidden damage to wiring, insulation, and structural supports. Step 2: Custom Extraction & Removal Once the "who" and "how" are identified, we deploy site-specific solutions. • Humane Trapping: Using modern, species-specific traps checked daily. • One-Way Exclusion Doors: For bats and flying squirrels, we install specialized doors that allow animals to exit safely but prevent re-entry. It's like a reversed lobster trap! • Live Capture: For immediate threats inside the living space. Step 3: Professional Remediation Wildlife leaves a toxic trail. We restore your home to a safe, sanitary state. • Sanitization: We use hospital-grade enzyme cleaners to neutralize bacteria and pheromones. • Restoration: Full removal of contaminated insulation and replacement with high-performance materials. Step 4: The Fortress Shield (Exclusion) Pheromones left by the intruders may attract other wildlife to inspect and attempt entry. We prevent that. Exclusion: This is the most critical step. We "bolt the door shut" by sealing every vulnerability with painted heavy duty steel , heavy-duty vinyl coated hardware cloth, and weather-resistant sealants. We don't just fix the hole; we prevent the next one. Warranty: Most of our exclusion services qualify for our 1 Year Workmanship Warranty. This warranty serves as 'peace of mind' once the animals have been successfully evicted. Not all structures qualify for the warranty. (old farm houses and barns, traditional log homes, structures with rat infestations, etc.)

There are many bats out there in the world, learn more about the Bats that we have here in Maine! Bats Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Bats Two out of Eight species of bats found throughout Maine are - the Big Brown Bat and the Little Brown Bat. They have slightly different life-cycles and characteristics and as such are handled differently by wildlife removal experts. The following are some more bat facts for Maine homeowners: Habitat Urban: In urban environments bats are found in semi-open areas often near trees and water but will make their roots inside building spaces. Breeding Time of year: Bats mate in the fall and sometimes into the winter months. Sperm is stored and ovulation and fertilization are delayed until the female emerges from hibernation. Litter size Big Brown Bats have one to two offspring every year while the Little Brown Bat has only one. Rearing Little Brown Bats will stay in the roost for the first 18 days of their life and can fly thereafter. They reach maturity within 3 weeks. Big Brown Bats take longer to mature and do not reach adult size until 70 days. Sexual maturity Female bats are sexually mature near the end of their first year. Male bats take slightly longer and will reach sexual maturity after their first year. Food and Feeding Time of day: Bats are nocturnal and use high frequency echo-location to seek out their food. Diet Big Brown Bats eat a variety of insects but prefer beetles. Little Brown Bats enjoy flying insects like midges, mosquitoes and mayflies. Morphology and Lifestyle Wing span: Big Brown Bats - 32 to 39cm; Little Brown Bats - 22 to 27cm. Weight: Big Brown Bats - 11 to 25g; Little Brown Bats - 5 to 11g. Vocalization: Bats use high frequency echo-location that is hard to hear with the exception of some clicking sounds. Lifespan: Between 10 and 20 years with the rare bat living as long as 30 years. Did You Know? Bats play an important role in our environment as they can consume up to 3,000 insects in one night. Bats in Canada will not fly in your hair and suck your blood. Bats can spread the rabies virus when infected with very little to no evidence of contact. Bats can squeeze through a hole the size of a dime. A bat can produce several times its own weight in waste each month. Bat colonies can range in size from one to several hundred and can double in size every year. Bats hibernate when the temperature drops below 10 degrees C.

Learn more about the Raccoons that we work with here! Raccoons Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Raccoons The raccoon (Procyon lotor) is a native mammal of Maine, measuring about three feet long, including its 12-inch, bushy, ringed tail. Because its hind legs are longer than the front legs, the raccoon has a hunched appearance when it walks or runs. Each of its front feet has five dexterous toes, allowing raccoons to grasp and manipulate food and other items. Raccoons prefer forested areas near a stream or water source, but have adapted to various environments throughout the state. Raccoon populations can get quite large in urban areas, owing to restrictions on and trapping, lack of predators, and food supplied by humans. Adult raccoons weigh 15 to 40 pounds, their weight being a result of genetics, age, available food and habitat location. Males have weighed in at over 60 pounds. A raccoon in the wild will probably weigh less than the urbanized raccoon that has learned to live on handouts, pet food and garbage-can leftovers. As long as raccoons are kept out of human homes, are not cornered, and are treated as wild animals rather than pets, they are not dangerous. Because raccoons manipulate and moisten food items in water, there is a misconception that raccoons "wash" their food before eating it. However, when water is not available, raccoons use many of the same motions in handling food. Facts about Raccoons Food and Feeding Behavior Raccoons will eat almost anything, but are particularly fond of creatures found in water – clams, crayfish, frogs, fish, and snails. Raccoons also eat insects, slugs, dead animals, carrion, birds, bird eggs, fruit, vegetables, nuts and seeds. When garbage and pet food are accessible, raccoons will often eat these items, too. Although not great hunters, raccoons can catch young birds, squirrels, mice and rats. Except during the breeding season and when females are with young, raccoons are solitary. Individuals will eat together if a large amount of food is available in an area. Den Sites and Resting Sites Raccoons take shelter and raise young in dens. They may use burrows that other mammals have dug and abandoned, holes in trees, hollow logs, or areas under large rock or brush piles. They may also take advantage of wood duck nest-boxes, attics, crawl spaces, chimneys and abandoned vehicles. In urban areas, raccoons normally use den sites as daytime rest sites. In wooded areas, they often rest in trees. Raccoons generally move to a different den or daytime rest site every few days, but do not follow a predictable pattern. Only a female with young or an animal "holed up" during a cold spell will use the same den for any length of time. Several raccoons may den together during winter storms. Reproduction and Home Range Raccoons pair up only during the breeding season. Mating occurs as early as January to as late as June. The peak mating period is February. The female bears two or three kits after a 63-day gestation period. The kits remain in the den until they are about seven weeks old, at which time they can walk, run, climb, and begin to occupy alternate dens. At eight to ten weeks of age, the young regularly accompany their mother outside the den and forage for themselves. By 12 weeks, the kits roam on their own for several nights before returning to their mother. The kits remain with their mother in her home range through winter. In early spring seek out their own territories. The size of a raccoon's home range, as well as its nightly hunting area, varies greatly depending on the habitat and food supply. In urban areas, a raccoon may travel a mile and still be in its home range. Mortality and Longevity Raccoons die from vehicle collisions, disease, starvation and predation. Hunters and trappers also take raccoons. Young raccoons are the main victims of starvation, since they have very little fat reserve to draw from during food shortages in late winter and early spring. Bobcats, coyotes and domestic dogs will prey on raccoons; large owls and eagles will prey on young. The average life span of a raccoon in the wild is two to three years; captive animals have lived to the age of 13. Viewing Raccoons Raccoons are usually active at night, but can occasionally be spotted during the day eating, searching for food, or napping in a tree. Coastal raccoons take advantage of low tides, whether during the day or night, to forage for shellfish and other food. Once nightly temperatures fall below 25 degrees F, raccoons retreat to their dens, but may occasionally be seen during warm spells in late fall and early spring. Trails Raccoons take advantage of trails that other wildlife or humans have made, particularly those next to water or in the shelter of woodlands or overgrown fields. They also use culverts to move safely from one side of a road to the other. With a marsh on one side and woods on the other, the culvert becomes the chief route back and forth. In developed areas, raccoon travel along fences, next to buildings, and near food sources. Tracks, Scratch Marks, and Similar Signs Look for tracks in sand, mud, or soft soil, particularly at either end of a culvert. Also check deck railings, fire escapes, and other surfaces that raccoons use to gain access to structures. Tracks may appear as smudge marks on the side of a house where a raccoon shimmies up and descends a downspout or utility pipe. Sharp, non-retractable claws and long digits make raccoons good climbers. Like squirrels, raccoons can rotate their hind feet 180 degrees and descend trees headfirst. (Cats have claws that do not rotate, they have to back down trees) Scan for scratch marks on trees and other structures that raccoons climb. Look for wear marks, body oil, and hairs on wood and other rough surfaces, particularly around the edges of den entrances. The den's entrance hole is usually at least four inches high and six inches wide. Both front and back feet have five toes. The rear foot, which shows the "heel," looks like a small human footprint; the hind tracks are three to four inches long. The front prints have shorter heel marks and are two to three inches long. Droppings Note: Raccoon droppings may carry a parasite that can be fatal to humans. Do not handle or smell raccoon droppings (the parasite can be inhaled) and wash your hands if you touch droppings. Raccoon droppings, which are crumbly and flat-ended, can contain a variety of food items. They are three to five inches long, but are usually broken into segments. They are about half an inch to one inch in diameter, about the size of the end of your little finger. Raccoons defecate before climbing trees and entering structures. They create toilet areas – called "latrines" – inside and outside structures and away from the nesting area. (House cats have similar habits). You may also find scat at the base of trees, on logs and on roofs. Calls Raccoons make several types of noises, including a purr, a chittering sound, and various growls, snarls, and snorts. Raccoons Too Close for Comfort If a raccoon comes too close to you, make yourself appear larger. If you are sitting, stand up, shout and wave your arms. If necessary, throw stones or send the raccoon off with a dousing of water from a hose or bucket. If a raccoon continues to act aggressively or strangely (circling, staggering as if drunk or disoriented) or shows unnatural tameness, it may be sick or injured. Call a game warden, your regional wildlife office, or the state police. If aggressive raccoons are routinely seen in your area, prepare children for a possible encounter. Explain why raccoons live in the area (habitat, food sources, species adaptability) and what the children should do if one approaches. Teach them to shout a set phrase such as "Go away raccoon!" instead of simply screaming, thereby informing nearby adults of the animal's presence. Demonstrate and rehearse encounter behavior with the children. If a raccoon finds its way into your house, stay calm, close surrounding interior doors, leave the room, and let the animal find its way back out through the open door, window or pet door. If necessary, gently use a broom to corral the raccoon outside. Do not corner a raccoon, thereby forcing it to defend itself. Preventing Conflicts A raccoon's search for food may lead it to a vegetable garden, fish pond, garbage can or chicken coop. It may find a den in an attic, chimney, or crawl space. The most effective way to prevent conflicts is to modify the habitat around your home to make it unattractive to raccoons. Don't feed raccoons. Feeding raccoons may create an undesirable situation for your family, neighbors, pets and the raccoons themselves. Human-fed raccoons often lose their fear of people and may become aggressive when they do not receive handouts as expected. Feeding also encourages raccoons to concentrate in a small area; overcrowding can spread diseases and parasites. Finally, these hungry visitors might approach a neighbor who does not share your appreciation of the animals. The neighbor might choose to remove these raccoons, or have them removed. Prevent raccoons from gaining access to your garbage. Keep your garbage can lid on tight by securing it with rope, chain, bungee cords or weights. Better yet, buy garbage cans with clamps or other mechanisms that hold lids on. To prevent tipping, secure side handles to metal or wooden stakes driven into the ground. Or, keep your cans in tight-fitting bins, a shed or a garage. Put garbage cans out for pickup in the morning, after raccoons have returned to their resting areas. Feed dogs and cats indoors and keep them in at night. If you must feed your pets outside, do so in late morning or around noon, and pick up food, water bowls, leftovers and spilled food daily well before dark. Keep pets indoors at night. If cornered, raccoons may attack dogs and cats. Bite wounds from raccoons can cause fractures and transmit disease. Prevent raccoons from entering pet doors. Lock the pet door at night. If it is necessary to have it remain open, put an electronically activated opener on your pet's collar. Note: Floodlights or motion detector lights placed above the pet door to scare raccoons are not long-term solutions. Keep indoor pet food and any other food away from a pet door. Put food in secure compost containers and clean up barbecue areas. Do not put food of any kind in an open compost pile; instead, use a securely covered compost structure or a commercially available raccoon-proof composter. A covered worm box also works. Your goal is to prevent attracting raccoons and to keep yourself from being exposed to their disease-carrying droppings. **Clean barbecue grills and grease traps thoroughly following each use. Prevent damage to lawns. Raccoons (and skunks) are attracted to the grubs and worms that live beneath sod. For more information about preventing damage visit our Skunks page. Eliminate access to denning sites. Raccoons commonly use chimneys, attics and spaces under houses, porches and sheds as den sites. Close any potential entries with one-quarter-inch mesh hardware cloth, boards or metal flashing. Make all connections flush and secure to keep mice, rats and other mammals out. Make sure you don't trap an animal inside when you seal off a potential entry. For information on securing chimneys, see below. Prevent raccoons from accessing rooftops by trimming nearby tree limbs and by attaching sheets of metal flashing around corners of buildings. Farm supply centers and bird-control supply companies on the Internet often carry commercial products that prevent climbing. (Fig. 4) Remove vegetation on buildings, such as English ivy, that allows raccoons to climb walls. Hide or close the opening through which they crawl into the building. Eliminate access to rooftops by installing sheets of aluminum flashing that are at least three feet square around the corners of buildings. Commercially available metal or plastic spikes can help keep raccoons off of buildings. Raccoons in Dumpsters and Down Chimneys Raccoons are enticed by the food smells in dumpsters. When the lids are open they climb in and can't climb the slippery sides to get out. To help them escape, put a strong branch or board in the dumpster. If your disposal company leaves dumpster lids open, install a sign telling employees that it's vital to keep the lid closed so animals do not get trapped inside. Consider installing a totally enclosed trash-compacting dumpster. (You deposit your trash in the front; the trash is regularly compacted) In spring and summer, a female raccoon may be enticed into the dark, quiet and secure environment of your chimney to nest. If you hear a large animal on the roof, or growls and whines coming from the chimney at night, there is probably a raccoon family inside. Using a powerful flashlight during the day, check whether animals have taken up residence. If spider webs are strung across the inside, you can be reasonably sure that no animal is using the chimney. After eight to ten weeks the female and young will leave and not return. The easiest solution is to wait for the raccoons to move out on their own. If you need to evict the animals, do not smoke them out and do not pour anything, including naphtha flakes or mothballs, down the chimney. Adult raccoons can easily climb out of a chimney, but the concentrated vapors can make the female extremely agitated while it attempts to flee. Baby raccoons cannot climb, so these measures will not evict them; in addition, the strong vapors can damage the mucous membranes of the infants. Instead, harass the adult female using the following methods until being it is no longer worth her effort to stay. One by one, she will pick up each young animal in her mouth, latching on to the back of its neck, and move it to an alternate den. Note: Any time you try to evict any mother animal, there is a chance that she may leave some or all of the young behind. To encourage the female raccoon to leave: Keep the chimney damper closed and put a loud radio tuned to a talk station in the fireplace. With a short broomstick, pole or narrow board, bang on the underside of the damper as frequently as possible. Use an olfactory deterrent. Wearing gloves, sprinkle dog, coyote or male raccoon urine (available from farm supply centers, hunting stores and the Internet) on a rag and wedge it in above the damper. If these natural repellents are unavailable, place a bowl containing a cup of ammonia on a footstool just under the damper; most dampers are not airtight, but if yours is, open the damper one-eighth inch. Keep the deterrents in place day and night during a period of mild weather and give the raccoons two to three nights to move out. The female may cause a racket the night of departure as she makes frequent trips up and down the chimney, moving her young. To make sure the eviction process was successful, shine a powerful flashlight down the chimney during the day. Tap the chimney with a hard object and listen for any sounds of movement. If a young raccoon is left behind, it may be that the mother has abandoned it. In these rare cases it is best to hire a wildlife damage control company to remove the animal. In urban areas, harassment techniques may not work because raccoons have become familiar with humans. If this is the case, call a wildlife damage control company and have them assess the situation. Once the raccoons are gone, promptly call a professional chimney sweep to remove any debris and to install a commercially designed and engineered chimney cap. (Homemade caps are often unsafe and may be a fire hazard) The new cap will allow you to have fires in your fireplace or wood stove, but will keep raccoons and other wildlife from entering. A commercial chimney cap will prevent raccoons and other small animals from entering the chimney. Enclose poultry in a secure outdoor pen and house. Raccoons will eat chickens, ducks and turkeys and their eggs. Signs of raccoon predation include the birds' heads bitten off and left some distance away, only the bird's crop being eaten, stuck birds pulled half-way through a fence, and nests in severe disarray. Note: Coyotes, foxes, skunks, raccoons, feral cats, dogs, bobcats, opossums, weasels, hawks and owls will also prey on poultry. If a dead bird is found with no apparent injuries, skinning it may determine what killed it. If the carcass is patterned by red spots where pointed teeth have bruised the flesh but not broken the skin, the bird was probably "played with" by one or more dogs until it died. To prevent raccoons and other animals from accessing birds in their night roosts, equip the poultry house with a well-fitting door and a secure locking mechanism. A raccoon's dexterous paws make it possible for it to open various types of fasteners and latches. To prevent raccoons and other animals from accessing poultry during the day, completely enclose outdoor pens with one-inch chicken wire placed over a sturdy wooden framework. Overlap and securely wire all seams on top to prevent raccoons from forcing their way in by using their weight and claws. To prevent raccoons from reaching in at ground level, surround the bottom 18 inches of the pen with smaller-mesh wire. Fence orchards and vegetable gardens. Raccoons can easily climb wood or wire fences, or bypass them by using overhanging limbs of trees or shrubs. Wire fences will need to have a mesh size that is no wider than three inches to keep young raccoons out. Install electrified wires 12 and 18 inches above ground on existing fence posts, poultry pen supports, and other structures, using the proper insulators. A single strand of wire may be sufficient, but two wires will provide added insurance that the animal will not climb up the post. Run one or two electrified wires toward the top of the fence to prevent other species from jumping the lower hot wires. Protect fruit trees, bird feeders, and nest boxes. To prevent raccoons from climbing trees, poles, and other vertical structures, install a metal or heavy plastic barrier. Twenty-four-inch long aluminum or galvanized vent-pipe, available at most hardware stores, can serve as a barrier around a narrow support. Note: Raccoons will attempt to use surrounding trees or structures as an avenue to access the area above the barrier. Alternatively, a funnel-shaped piece of aluminum flashing can be fitted around the tree or other vertical structure. The outside edge of the flared metal should be a minimum of 18 inches away from the support. Cut the material with tin snips and file down any sharp edges. Regularly pick up fallen fruit to prevent attracting raccoons. To prevent raccoons from climbing, secure guard around trees, pipes, posts and other structures. The guard can be made from a piece of aluminum flashing or sheet metal held together with wire, nails or screws, and then painted to blend in. Discourage raccoons from disturbing pond plants and other aquatic life. Raccoons are attracted to ponds because ponds are a source of food. Although it is tempting to simply install a motion-activated light or sprinkler – or shout at the animal when you see it – these tactics are at best temporarily effective. A raccoon, especially an urban raccoon, may run away the first night and walk away the second night. If there is no additional deterrent, however, by the third or fourth night the animal will be back even as the light shines brightly or the sprinkler sends out strong sprays of water. To deter the animal, you must protect potential food or secure the pond itself: Construct hiding places for fish by placing cinder blocks, ceramic drain tile, wire baskets, or upside-down plastic crates held in place with heavy rocks on the bottom of the pond. To prevent raccoons from disturbing aquatic plants in containers, use containers that are too heavy or wide for raccoons to overturn. Securing chicken wire over the top of the containers to prevent raccoons from disturbing the soil inside. Small ponds can be completely covered with a barrier that can be left on permanently or removed daily. Since raccoons are nocturnal, be sure the pond is covered at night. Examples of barriers include one-inch mesh chicken wire laid over the surface and held in place with stakes – raccoons will walk on the barrier and try and go under it. (While black bird-netting is less conspicuous, raccoons and other animals can easily get entangled in it) A wooden or PVC pipe frame covered with wire mesh can also be built to cover the pond. Maneuvering over pond plants with any of the above can be difficult. Or, you can construct a frame from heavy plastic lattice available from home improvement centers. Carefully cut the lattice so it fits in the pond; cut out pieces to accommodate any pond plants. Cover the lattice with bird netting. (with the solid backing, animals are less likely to become entangled in the netting) The netting can be glued to the lattice using Shoe Goo® or other waterproof glue. For larger ponds, stake two-foot wide strips of chicken wire flat around the inside of the pond edge where raccoons are entering. Cut the wire as needed to match the curvature of the pond. Raccoons will have difficulty reaching over the wire, and will hesitate to stand on it because of its instability. To camouflage and extend the life of the wire, spray it with dark-colored automobile undercoat paint or other rustproof paint. Ponds with steep, two-foot high side walls discourage raccoons from entering the water, but may be a safety hazard for small children and the elderly. These hazardous areas can be located away from paths and/or be heavily buffered with dense growths of tall marginal plants and shrubs. Two electrified wires, six and 12 inches above ground and just back from the water's edge will deter raccoons. A single strand of wire may be sufficient, but two wires will provide added insurance against the animal making the climb. The wires can be hooked up to a switch for discretionary use; when you want to work near the wire, turn the system off. Where the barrier presents a safety problem, attach signs, short pieces of white cloth, or other material on the wire for visibility. Install two electrified wires, six and 12 inches above ground around field crops and other areas needing protection. The fence can be hooked up to a switch for discretionary use; when you want to work near it, turn the system off. Where the fence presents a safety problem, install signs, short pieces of white cloth, or other material on the wire for visibility. Lethal Control Lethal control is a last resort and cannot be justified without first applying the above-described non-lethal control techniques. Lethal control is rarely a long-term solution as other raccoons are likely to move in if food if attractive food items such as garbage and pet foods are not eliminated or secured at the site. If all efforts to dissuade a problem raccoon fail, the animal may have to be trapped. While shooting can be effective in eliminating a single raccoon, it is generally limited to rural situations. Shooting is considered too hazardous in more populated areas, even when legal. Public Health Concerns Canine distemper contributes significantly to raccoon mortality. It is also fatal to domestic dogs, foxes, coyotes, mink, otters, weasels and skunks. It is caused by a virus and is spread most often when animals come in contact with the bodily secretions of animals infected with the disease. Gloves, cages, and other objects that have come in contact with infected animals can also contain the virus. The best prevention against canine distemper is to have your dogs vaccinated and kept away from raccoons. Raccoons in Maine often have roundworms (like domestic dogs and cats do, but from a different worm). Raccoon roundworm does not usually cause a serious problem for raccoons, but roundworm eggs shed in droppings can cause mild to serious illness in other animals and humans. Although rarely documented anywhere in the United States, raccoon roundworm can infect a person who accidentally ingests or inhales the parasite's eggs. Prevention consists of never touching or smelling raccoon droppings, using rubber gloves and a mask when cleaning areas (including traps) that have been occupied by raccoons, and keeping young children and pets away from areas where raccoons concentrate. If washing raccoon droppings from a roof, for example, make sure that the water doesn't splash toys, a patio, or other similar items. Routinely encourage children to wash their hands after playing outdoors and assist them in doing so. Unfortunately, raccoon roundworm eggs can remain alive in soil and other places for several months. Raccoons can carry rabies If someone receives a raccoon bite or scratch, immediately scrub the wound with soap and water, then flush it liberally with tap water. Contact your physician and the local health department immediately. If your pet is bitten, follow the same cleansing procedure and contact your veterinarian. If at all possible, try to recover the animal or note where it goes, as it should be submitted to the Department of Health for rabies testing. In addition, as previously noted, raccoon droppings may carry a parasite that can be fatal to humans. Do not handle or smell raccoon droppings (the parasite can be inhaled) and wash your hands if you touch droppings. Legal Status The raccoon is classified as both a furbearer and a game animal, and a hunting or trapping license is required to hunt or trap raccoons during an open season. Because legal status, trapping restrictions, and other information about raccoons change, contact your local Inland Fisheries and Wildlife Regional Office for updates. If a raccoon is causing damage or is a nuisance, consult Maine's laws on this subject: http://www.mainelegislature.org/legis/statutes/12/title12ch921sec0.html

Learn more about the Squirrels that we work with here! Squirrels Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Squirrels Two species of squirrel found in Maine are the Red Squirrel and the Eastern Gray Squirrel. Eastern grey squirrels commonly occur in two color phases, grey and black, which leads people to think (mistakenly) that there are two different species. The most notable physical feature of the eastern grey squirrel is its large bushy tail. The tail has many important functions. It acts as a rudder when the animal jumps from high places, as a warm covering during the winter, as a signal to other eastern grey squirrels indicating an individual’s mood. The following are some more squirrel facts for Maine homeowners: Habitat Urban: Although the grey squirrel is found in parks and woodland areas, they adapt quite easily to urban environments, taking up residence in and around buildings. They become very accustomed to utilizing attics and chimneys for nesting sites. Breeding Twice per year: Female squirrels can mate only twice a year, but males can mate at any time. Often, several males will attempt to mate with the same female. They try to attract her attention by slapping the bark of trees with their paws and chattering loudly. After the mating the males play no part in the rearing of the young. Birth occurs six weeks after mating. When Do Squirrels Have Babies? Squirrels have two breeding periods per year, one in mid-summer and another in early spring. In Maine, young are usually born between March and April, with a second litter arriving around July or August. Litter Size Female squirrels produce litters between 1 and 7 offspring (typically 5 or 6). Rearing The naked, blind and deaf young are fed every two to four hours for several weeks. At seven - eight weeks, they start to follow their mother around within the den site. The young squirrels gradually begin to eat solid food and are weaned at ten - eleven weeks of age. A month later, they start to leave the den. If there are not too many squirrels in the area, the young will build nests nearby. Otherwise, they will be chased away to less crowded feeding areas. Typically some of the squirrels will remain actively using the birthing den. Sexual Maturity Squirrels are sexually mature and able to reproduce at 11 months. Food and Feeding Frequency: The Grey Squirrel feeds every day, even in the winter. It does not hibernate and is unable to conserve enough energy to survive for long periods without food. Time of day It is most active at dawn and dusk, when it searches for whatever fruits, shoots, and seeds that are in season. Small thumbs on it's front paws allow it to hold food securely as it feeds. Diet The squirrel's diet varies according to season. It eats mainly tree bark and fungi in the winter and buds in the summer. In September it eats nuts and acorns. A hungry grey squirrel will also raid a bird's nest for eggs, steal food from bird feeders and dig up plants. In urban environments the grey squirrels also come across free handouts from people (namely peanuts in the shell). The squirrel buries extra food just below the soils surface, which it later locates by smell. Morphology and Lifestyle Body length: 9-12 in Tail length: 7-10 in Weight: 12-28 oz Habitat: Above ground (attics and chimneys), but spends much of it's time on the ground Call: Chattering and piercing scream Lifespan: 3-4 years Did You Know? The squirrel's front teeth continue to grow throughout it's life, so they must continue to gnaw to wear them down. A male squirrel can smell a female that is ready to mate. The grey squirrel can leap more than 20 feet. Although usually frightened of people, a mother squirrel can be quite aggressive if she perceives danger or is separated from her babies. Squirrels are very swift and can move or attack quickly if threatened. There can be 25 or more squirrels per square kilometre in urban areas with mature trees. Squirrels are more adaptable than you might think. They can fit through a hole the size of a baseball (black/grey squirrels) or a golf ball (red squirrels). And smaller holes can easily be chewed open.

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Learn about all of the Diseases, Parasites and Infections that Maine Wildlife Animals carry. Wildlife Diseases, Parasites, and Infections Source: https://www.maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife/wildlife/living-with-wildlife/diseases/index.html Bird Diseases Avian Influenza Avian Influenza (AI) is a type A influenza virus naturally found in certain waterfowl and shorebird species. One strain, H5N1 avian influenza, raised concerns regarding the potential impact on wild birds, domestic poultry, and human health should it be introduced into the US. Avian Cholera Avian Cholera is a contagious bacterial disease that affects ducks, geese, coots, gulls, and crows. It can be transmitted by bird-to-bird contact, contact with secretions or feces of infected birds, or through food, water, and soil. It is deadly to birds, but not considered contagious to humans. Wellfleet Bay Virus The Wellfleet Bay virus is a disease that affects Eider ducks and has thus far been confined to one location: Wellfleet, Massachusetts. Loosely related to the flu virus, it attacks the liver and gallbladder, and seems to work very fast. Learn more at NWDC . Lymphoproliferative Disease Virus (LPDV) LPDV is a disease that affects turkeys and was not detected in the United States until 2012, though it had been seen in domestic turkeys in Great Britain. The disease is similar to Avian Pox and manifests as tumors to the head and feet of turkey, but it is not transmissible to humans. Deer Diseases, Parasites, and Infections Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) is a fatal disease that affects cervids such as deer and moose. It has not yet been found in Maine, and there are things hunters can do to prevent it from being spread here. Learn more by visiting our CWD page . Fibromas Deer fibromas are wart-like growths on deer that are typically caused by an infection with a species-specific papillomavirus. In most cases, fibromas will not negatively impact the health of infected deer, and fibromas are not known to be a significant source of deer mortality. Learn more on our deer fibroma page . Lice, mange, and/or dermatophilosis It is not uncommon to see deer missing patches of fur, and there are several possible causes for this including lice, mange, and/or dermatophilosis, also known as rain rot. Learn more on our hair loss in deer page . Furbearer and Bat Diseases Mange Mange is a contagious skin disease that is caused by mites. Mange results in hair loss and is most commonly seen in foxes and coyotes in Maine, but has also been reported in bobcats, black bears, porcupines, rabbits, squirrels, and raccoons in other areas of North America. People can be infected with mange, a condition known as scabies. If you see a wild animal with mange, there is no need to call for help. Many affected animals with mange are able to recover from the disease. Mange is a naturally occurring disease that helps manage wildlife populations at healthy levels. Learn more at NWDC . Rabies Rabies is a virus that infects the central nervous system of mammals (most commonly bats, fox, raccoons, and skunk), causing a brain disease that is fatal unless treated before symptoms start. It is spread by direct contact through a scratch or bite that breaks the skin, or through a mucous membrane. Learn more from the Maine CDC. White-nose Syndrome White-nose syndrome is a deadly disease that affects bats that hibernate in the winter. It is called white-nose syndrome because of the white fungus commonly found on the muzzles of infected bats. WNS emerged in Maine in 2011 and affects several native bat species. Learn more on the MDIFW website . Moose Parasites Winter Tick The winter tick is a small, external parasite which, like all of Maine’s 15 tick species, survives on the blood of animals. Unlike other ticks, winter ticks are not known to spread disease. However, they can be deadly to moose. Learn more on our winter tick page .

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For more information, check out the frequently asked questions by our customers! Frequently Asked Questions Question : I have a pest control problem, how soon can you get here? Answer : We prioritize timely service to keep our customers satisfied. Generally, we can reach your home or business within a day or two of your call. Priority is given to emergencies, although rescheduling of appointments may be necessary. During peak periods, it may take up to a week to initiate services. Question : Do you also work as an exterminator for bugs and insects? Answer : No, we do not provide extermination services for bugs and insects. Question : Will my home owner’s insurance pay for your services? Answer : Most home owners insurance policies do not typically cover animal removal, but they may cover cleanup or repair costs. It is advisable to consult your insurance agent. We are willing to collaborate with you and your insurance companies to ensure the completion of the job. Question : Are you going to use a lot of dangerous poisons or chemicals? Answer : We opt not to use poisons or chemicals to resolve wildlife conflicts. However, we utilize non-toxic cleaning agents to aid in cleaning and deodorizing wildlife waste or skunk spray. The health and safety of our customers, as well as their families and pets, are always our top priority. Question : What happens to the animals you catch? Answer : Licensed NWCO are bound by specific rules and laws, which we strictly adhere to at Turcotte's Wildlife Removal Services . Live-caught animals are relocated, while sick or injured animals are taken to rehabilitation centers or euthanized depending on severity. Question : Do you work in bad weather or in the winter time? Answer : Yes, we operate throughout the year, regardless of weather conditions. However, for safety reasons, there may be specific jobs that we prefer to undertake on more favorable days. Question : Do you charge by the animal, by the hour or by the job? Answer : With each wildlife scenario being unique, we adopt a flexible pricing approach to better serve our customers. For example, animal damage repair is priced based on materials and time, while bat removal work is priced per job. Trapping costs are determined by the type of animal, materials/tools needed and the duration of trapping. Question : Will my property be further damaged by catching these animals? Answer : Our goal is to prevent additional damage to your property. In certain cases, minor damage to the home may be necessary to remove the animal. Nevertheless, we have skilled tradespeople who can efficiently repair most damages if required. * Please note that we are not liable for any damage caused by the animal or its removal methods. * Question : Can I watch you work? Answer : Certainly, you are welcome to observe our work. However, in most cases, the presence of the owner is not necessary and may actually inhibit our abilities to work efficiently. We request that the owner try to be available on the day of inspection (although not required to be there) or service to sign paperwork and provide property access. Following that, we can proceed with the work even without the owner present.

Learn more about the Foxes that we work with here! Foxes Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Foxes Maine is fortunate to have two species of fox, the red fox (Vulpes vulpes) and gray fox (Urocyon cinereoargenteus). Both species are similar in size, but there are some important differences in their appearance, behavior, and distribution. Red Fox The red fox is abundant and widespread, occurring in all counties in Maine. Adult red foxes weigh 7-15 pounds and have a distinct red/orange appearance, white chest, black legs, and bushy white-tipped tail. Silver or cross foxes are a melanistic form of the red fox; they appear black, silver or a combination of red/black/grey and are less common than the typical red phase. Red foxes have keen eyesight and hearing, and are very agile, jumping up to six feet high. Red foxes have a special method of hunting with impressive pounces on prey hidden under the snow or ground. Gray Fox The gray fox is abundant in southern and mid-coast Maine, and continues to expand into western and central parts of Maine. Gray foxes weigh about 10 pounds and are distinguished by their grizzled coloration, a hint of red on the neck, ears, and lower legs, and a black stripe down their tail. Gray fox are the only member in the canid (dog) family in North America that can climb trees. Red foxes can climb, but not as well as gray foxes. Food and Feeding Behavior Foxes are omnivores and eat a wide variety of plants and animals, depending on the season. Small birds and mammals are consumed, including mice, voles, rats, rabbits, and bird eggs. Foxes also eat insects, snakes, carrion, berries, apples, corn, seeds, and nuts. Foxes are primarily nocturnal, including hunting during dawn and dusk, but foxes are occasionally seen out during the day, particularly during the spring/summer when rearing pups. Habitat Foxes are found in diverse habitats and are quite tolerant of living near people. Foxes are common in agricultural landscapes and tend to do well with a mix of forest and fields. Coyotes are predators of foxes but tend to be more wary of people, so foxes avoid coyotes by living near people. Preventing Conflicts Research suggests that humans create the conditions for conflict by deliberately or inadvertently providing animals with food and shelter. Use the following management strategies around your property to prevent or resolve conflicts and encourage your neighbors to do the same. Seeing a fox out during the day is not a problem and does not mean the fox is sick! Never approach or handle wildlife. Enjoy watching the fox go about its business from a safe distance. Remember that fur coats are much thinner and patchier in the summer, especially for mother foxes who have put most of their energy into raising young. Never feed wildlife. Once an animal is fed, it will return, lose its fear of people, and could become aggressive. If you have had conflicts in the past and have a bird feeder, consider planting native plants instead. Bird feeding can create a chain of events that are not always obvious. Dropped seed attracts many wildlife species who feed on the seeds or predators who feed on the rodents that increase as a result of a bird feeder. Store your trash inside buildings, use garbage cans with locking lids, and bring your garbage cans to the curb the morning of pick up. Securely cover and fence compost piles or use a compost bin. Never throw dairy or animal matter into compost, since it can become smelly and attract animals. Regularly mixing in some dirt or leaves to your pile and will also reduce the scent and allow the foods to break down more quickly into compost. Foxes and other predators will kill free-ranging chickens and other small livestock that are not secured in a shelter. Protect your livestock from predation by using a predator-proof pen with well fitted doors and locks and electric fencing. Small livestock should be confined to their pens during vulnerable periods from dusk until dawn. Foxes can carry diseases, but people can protect themselves by keeping a safe distance from wildlife and vaccinating their pets. Common fox diseases include mange, rabies, and canine distemper. Foxes are very tolerant of people and will den in a variety of places, including near roads, in yards, or under buildings. In most cases, the fox family will move if there is a lot of disturbance. Be a responsible pet owner and never let your dog harass wildlife. If you want to encourage the foxes to move, simply pour some bleach or ammonia at the entrance of the den, leave a portable light on, or a radio on overnight. This will encourage them to move to an alternative den. Prevent wildlife from denning under your porch, deck, or buildings by closing off holes during the fall. Close off these areas with quarter-inch hardware cloth, boards, metal flashing or other sturdy barriers.

Learn more about the Opossums that we work with here! Opossums Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Squirrels Two species of squirrel found in Maine are the Red Squirrel and the Eastern Gray Squirrel. Eastern grey squirrels commonly occur in two color phases, grey and black, which leads people to think (mistakenly) that there are two different species. The most notable physical feature of the eastern grey squirrel is its large bushy tail. The tail has many important functions. It acts as a rudder when the animal jumps from high places, as a warm covering during the winter, as a signal to other eastern grey squirrels indicating an individual’s mood. The following are some more squirrel facts for Maine homeowners: Habitat Urban: Although the grey squirrel is found in parks and woodland areas, they adapt quite easily to urban environments, taking up residence in and around buildings. They become very accustomed to utilizing attics and chimneys for nesting sites. Breeding Twice per year: Female squirrels can mate only twice a year, but males can mate at any time. Often, several males will attempt to mate with the same female. They try to attract her attention by slapping the bark of trees with their paws and chattering loudly. After the mating the males play no part in the rearing of the young. Birth occurs six weeks after mating. When Do Squirrels Have Babies? Squirrels have two breeding periods per year, one in mid-summer and another in early spring. In Maine, young are usually born between March and April, with a second litter arriving around July or August. Litter size Female squirrels produce litters between 1 and 7 offspring (typically 5 or 6). Rearing: The naked, blind and deaf young are fed every two to four hours for several weeks. At seven - eight weeks, they start to follow their mother around within the den site. The young squirrels gradually begin to eat solid food and are weaned at ten - eleven weeks of age. A month later, they start to leave the den. If there are not too many squirrels in the area, the young will build nests nearby. Otherwise, they will be chased away to less crowded feeding areas. Typically some of the squirrels will remain actively using the birthing den. Sexual Maturity Squirrels are sexually mature and able to reproduce at 11 months. Food and Feeding Frequency: The Grey Squirrel feeds every day, even in the winter. It does not hibernate and is unable to conserve enough energy to survive for long periods without food. Time of day It is most active at dawn and dusk, when it searches for whatever fruits, shoots, and seeds that are in season. Small thumbs on it's front paws allow it to hold food securely as it feeds. Diet The squirrel's diet varies according to season. It eats mainly tree bark and fungi in the winter and buds in the summer. In September it eats nuts and acorns. A hungry grey squirrel will also raid a bird's nest for eggs, steal food from bird feeders and dig up plants. In urban environments the grey squirrels also come across free handouts from people (namely peanuts in the shell). The squirrel buries extra food just below the soils surface, which it later locates by smell. Morphology and Lifestyle Body length: 9-12 in Tail length: 7-10 in Weight: 12-28 oz Habitat: Above ground (attics and chimneys), but spends much of it's time on the ground Call: Chattering and piercing scream Lifespan: 3-4 years Did You Know? The squirrel's front teeth continue to grow throughout it's life, so they must continue to gnaw to wear them down. A male squirrel can smell a female that is ready to mate. The grey squirrel can leap more than 20 feet. Although usually frightened of people, a mother squirrel can be quite aggressive if she perceives danger or is separated from her babies. Squirrels are very swift and can move or attack quickly if threatened. There can be 25 or more squirrels per square kilometre in urban areas with mature trees. Squirrels are more adaptable than you might think. They can fit through a hole the size of a baseball (black/grey squirrels) or a golf ball (red squirrels). And smaller holes can easily be chewed open.

View our website to learn more about Remediations! Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Inspections Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info Restoring Your Home’s Health When wildlife moves into your attic, the damage goes far beyond the noise. Animals leave behind biohazards—feces, urine, parasites (like mites and fleas), and nesting materials—that compromise your indoor air quality and destroy your home’s energy efficiency. Our Remediation Standards: • Total Decontamination: We don't just "pick up the mess." We use professional-grade HEPA vacuums and atomizing foggers to neutralize bacteria, mold, and pheromones at the molecular level. • Insulation Restoration: We remove compressed, soiled insulation and replace it with high-R-value materials that meet or exceed current Maine building codes. • Energy Audit: While we’re in the attic, we identify "bypass" leaks where your heat is escaping, saving you money on your monthly energy bills. Will Insurance Cover My Claim? Many homeowners are surprised to find that their insurance policy may cover the cost of attic cleanup and insulation replacement. • Professional Documentation: We provide your insurance adjuster with a detailed "Damage Report," including high-resolution photos and a line-item estimate for remediation. • Direct Consultation: We can speak directly with your insurance company to explain the health risks and structural damage caused by the infestation, helping you get the coverage you deserve. It is important to note that once animals have entered any residence, they typically soil areas in the attic or basement with fecal droppings and urine. Some animal droppings even contain diseases like Histoplasmosis (a type of lung infection caused by inhaling Histoplasma capsulatum fungal spores. These spores are found in soil and in the droppings of bats and birds. This fungus mainly grows in the central, southeastern, and mid-Atlantic states.) Insulation also often gets ripped up and used as a nest, lowering the "R" value of the insulation, requiring replacement of the insulation due to inefficiency. Fortunately, we provide a full remediation service to address these issues. Our service includes bagging up or vacuuming out all soiled insulation and debris, and then applying a strong sanitizer/disinfectant over the entire affected area. Finally, new insulation will be rolled out or blown into the area as needed. (It is also advisable to have an electrician check over any potentially chewed wires to prevent fire hazards.) To request your appointment today, CLICK HERE .

View our website to learn more about Live Animal Removals! Live Animal Removals Inspections Humane Animal Trapping Animal Exclusions Live Animal Removals Trenching Attic/Crawl Space Remediation Bird Exclusions/Prevention Contractor Consultation Wildlife Rehabilitation Services Warranty Info • The Problem: An animal is currently inside your living space or established on your property, posing a risk to your family or pets. • Our Service: We utilize industry-leading, humane trapping techniques and emergency live-capture methods. Whether it’s a raccoon in the kitchen or a skunk under the porch, we prioritize the safe and ethical handling of the animal. • The Result: Immediate removal of the threat with zero unnecessary harm to the animal. If you ever find yourself face-to-face with a wild animal in your front yard, porch, or living area, our live Animal removal service is your top priority! You can call us anytime, day or night, if you have a wild animal loose in or around your home or business. We'll be there to safely and ethically catch the animal and relocate it. CLICK HERE to request your Appointment Today!

Learn more about the Skunks that we work with here! Skunks Raccoons Opossums Squirrels Skunks Bats Groundhogs Foxes Coyotes Everything You Wanted To Know About Skunks Skunks are renowned for the horrible smell they emit when injured, frightened or mating. The odor can remain on pets and in ventilation systems for weeks or months. But these animals can also cause significant damage to buildings and landscaping. They are opportunistic animals that thrive in a diversity of habitats throughout North America. The following are some more skunk facts for Maine homeowners: Habitat Underneath structures: Skunks are burrowers. In the wild they will dig into the ground at the base of a tree. In urban settings, they can be found underneath decks, sheds, porches, houses and other solid foundations. Once underneath, they will hollow out a bowl-shaped depression lined with grass and leaves. Breeding Early in the year: Skunks mate between January and mid March. Interestingly, female skunks can store the male's sperm separately from her eggs in order to delay pregnancy until weather conditions are favorable. The gestation period is around 63 days long. Litter size Female skunks produce litters between 4 and 6 offspring (but it can range between 1 and 9). Rearing Baby skunks keep their eyes closed for the first 21 days and remain in the den for the first 6 to 8 weeks. After this time, the young will venture out for nighttime foraging with their mother. Sexual maturity: Skunks are sexually mature after 9 to 12 months. Food and Feeding Time of day: Skunks are nocturnal and will venture out to forage most evenings. Diet Skunks are omnivores but prefer to eat plants, veggies, fruits, insects, grubs, small animals and eggs as well as anything left in accessible garbage cans. Morphology and Lifestyle Body length: 10-15 in Tail length: 10-15 in Weight: 1 - 4 kg Vocalization: Usually silent but can produce a bird-like noise Lifespan: Between 5 and 10 years Did You Know? Skunks can spray their scent glands up to 15 feet. The skunk smell can remain on skin and pet hair for days, weeks and even months. Skunks have poor eyesight and as such, their awareness of their surroundings is limited. Skunk burrows can cause structural weakness in decks, porches, sheds and foundations. Skunks will dig up lawns and gardens to find food. Skunks can carry the rabies virus and not "look" infected.